bitter orange, Black Musk, Black Pepper, Corrinne Cachen, Gaiacwood, Men's Fragrance Friday, Niche, Northern California, Noses, Nutmeg, Oriental Fougere, Pacific Ocean, Patchouli, Redwood, Redwoods, Season, Series, Smoky Icense, Spice Ginger, Unisex, Winter
The landscape of Northern California is diverse as its people which serves as a constant reminder of how lucky I am to be born and raised here. Every time I drive along the PCH (Pacific Coast Highway), the scenery never ceases to take my breath away. As you go further up north, you see the gleaming blue Pacific Ocean on your right and the majestic redwood forest to your left. This picture perfect postcard is what I would always see out the window every summer during my youth. An avid fisherman and outdoorsman, my dad would throw his fishing poles, tackle gear, me and my mom in the back of his truck to head out of the city and into north country for the summer salmon run. The man taught me how to fish before I could crawl. He would carry me in a baby backpack. Bait box in one hand and fishing pole in the other. Together, we would hike through the towering redwoods out toward the mouth of Klamath, where the river meets the Pacific Ocean. By the time I was four years old, I knew the difference between perch, trout, steelhead, and striped bass. I remember scampering between redwood trees as tall as skyscrapers and hiding quietly behind sand dunes to observe wild Elk in their natural habitat. Thanks to dad, he taught this city girl appreciation and respect for nature and outdoor survival skills. For example, how to survive without makeup and a hair dryer (which proved to be useful later in life).
I’ve searched high and low for a scent memory that reminds me of the beauty of Northern California and summers spent with my dad . I was excited to learn Odin New York’s latest olfactory travel adventure looked west toward the coast of California. Created by Parisian parfumeur, Corrine Cachen, 07 Tanoke is classified as an oriental fougere inspired by redwoods and surrounding waters of Northern California. Naturally, I was very curious as to what a Parisian’s interpretation of my homeland terrain would smell like. I had to get my nose on this fragrance pronto!
The latest addition to Odin New York’s expanding fragrance library is the introduction of 07 Tanoke. Odin New York’s signature unisex fragrances mimic the exoticism of travel and demonstrate a modern approach to time-honored traditions by layering rich and complex notes. 07 Tanoke conjures the natural aromas of lush Californian landscapes near seaside terrains, amounting to a pure and recognizably American scent. The wood-based fragrance joins the well-defined scents in the Odin Fragrances catalog that includes 01 Sunda, 02 Owari, 03 Century, 04 Petrana, and 06 Amanu. W Magazine selected 07 TANOKE as one of the Top 10 Indie Fragrances.
Odin New York’s 07 Tanoke was in development for over a year with Paris-based Drom perfumer Corinne Cachen to find the right balance of strength and lightness. Layering classically American scents inspired by the woods and surrounding waters of Northern California, 07 Tanoke arrives at a clean, crisp aroma that is grounded with a natural warmness. The masculine and feminine dichotomy that defines Odin Fragrances is apparent in the strength of the woodsy top notes that meet with the light finish. The fragrance’s unique blend creates an invigorating quality that achieves an everlasting effect.
Notes: Spice Ginger, Bitter Orange, Black Pepper, Gaiacwood, Smoky Icense, Nutmeg, Redwood, Patchouli, Black Musk
From the vial: First impression is a musty dark wood smell. This comes as a surprise as I was expecting a fresh balsamic scent but I see where Corinne Cachen was going with this. If you haven’t experienced a redwood forest, it smells musty damp and moldy. Redwood trees along the coast thrive in dark, damp conditions. More than anything 07 Tanoke reminds me of the wet bark of a redwood tree.
Wet on Skin: The smokey incense notes and patchouli makes itself known once it hits my skin.
Drydown: As it starts to drydown, the redwood forest becomes darker, damper, and smokier. I also detect a bit of spicy bittersweetness from the black pepper, ginger, nutmeg, and bitter orange. I keep picturing a smoldering forest that had been set on fire. The flames have dissipated and all you see and smell is the steam rising from the earthy forest floor. As it develops more, it gets even smokier and smells as if I’m standing inside the hollow body of a redwood tree that has been burned from the inside. Before the fragrance completely disappears, the smokiness finally subsides giving off a slight peppery sweet aroma.
Sillage: It has decent projection. People can smell me from a couple feet away. There is a slight movement trail.
Longevity: Excellent. I can still smell a faint aroma on my skin after 24 hours.
Would I Buy A Full Bottle? I’m on the fence. A fascinating scent but too masculine for my taste despite being classified as a unisex fragrance. Not sure if my husband likes this as he’s not a fan of patchouli or smokey scents in general but would smell lovely on a man if he is into this type scent.
Season and Occasion: This is a dark smokey pungent wood. 07 Tanoke would perform better in winter.
Layering & Dupe Possibilities: 07 Tanoke smells familiar. It smells like a mix between the fresh sharp woods of Comme des Garcons Hinoki and the smokey Catholic high mass of Comme des Garcons Incense Avignon. (The smoke mutes the sharpness of wood a bit.) Layer these two fragrances, you get a scent not too far off from 07 Tanoke. I’m also willing to bet if you layer CdG Red Series Sequoia over Incense Avignon, you’ll get a dead ringer for Tanoke!
Final Verdict: Odin 07 Tanoke was not what I expected. I was expecting the smell of salty ocean breeze mixed with musty damp redwood forest. I never got the clean and crisp “lush California landscape and seaside terrain.” Instead, I got the aroma of black carbon from the hollow insides of a 1000 year old drive-thru redwood tree. Does it smell like Northern California landscape? Yes, in a way. It smells like one aspect — the redwood tree itself. To me, 07 Tanoke smells like I took the wrong exit off the freeway and found myself in the aftermath of a redwood forest fire!
Odin New York Odin 07 Tanoke: 100 ml retails for $125 at odinnewyork.com
Men’s Fragrance Friday series. A weekly review of men’s and unisex fragrances[Image 1] via Odin New York [Image 2] via kampklamath.com [Image 3] via flickriver.com